Discover the resurgence of Indigenous food practices in Sarawak, Borneo, as chefs and locals embrace traditional cooking methods and locally foraged ingredients. Experience the unique flavors of Borneo while preserving heritage and addressing sustainability and economic development.

The Renaissance of Indigenous Food Culture in Borneo

( Credit to: Washingtonpost )

The lush jungles of Borneo have always been a treasure trove of culinary delights for those who know what can be eaten and how to prepare it. Indigenous people have relied on these biodiverse ecosystems for centuries to sustain themselves. However, with the spread of modernity, there has been a fear that many traditional culinary practices would disappear. But now, to the relief of tribal elders, a renaissance of Borneo's traditional food culture is taking place.

In the face of the climate crisis and disruptions to global supply chains, people around the world are seeking more sustainable and localized sources of food. This has led to a resurgence of Indigenous food practices, and few places have experienced as dramatic a revival as the Malaysian state of Sarawak on the northwestern coast of Borneo. Approximately 40 percent of Sarawak's population of 2.5 million has Indigenous heritage, making it a hotspot for this cultural revival.

Embracing Indigenous Culinary Traditions

Malaysian chefs who had left for fine-dining restaurants abroad are now returning to Sarawak to set up their own establishments. They venture into the forests to forage for rare jungle produce, such as the flowers of wild durian trees that bloom for less than a week. Families who inherited the fading practice of tapping sugar from mangrove palms have found new champions in environmental advocates.

In a village outside the state capital of Kuching, a Kelabit woman receives a steady stream of visitors eager to learn about cooking with the unique plants and insects found only in Borneo's rainforests. Mina Trang-Witte, a 65-year-old village cook, shares her knowledge of aromatic wild ginger, juicy sago worms, and twirling jungle fern. Many of the plants she forages do not have English translations, and some do not have names at all. Her newfound popularity is a testament to the growing interest in Indigenous food culture.

The Global Resurgence of Indigenous Food Culture

While Indigenous food knowledge has been eroding for centuries in regions like North America, it has faded even more rapidly in developing countries in South America and Southeast Asia. However, the tide is now turning. In countries that share the Amazon rainforest, Indigenous chefs are gaining popularity, and Indigenous suppliers are being recognized by prestigious culinary awards.

In Sarawak, the revival of Indigenous food culture received a significant boost when the United Nations' cultural protection agency, UNESCO, named Kuching one of its "cities of gastronomy" in 2021. This recognition highlighted the combination of Sarawak's biodiversity and Indigenous heritage. Since then, heritage food festivals and events have sprung up in the city, and a new gastronomy center is being built. The visit of Antoni Porowski, the food and wine expert from the TV show "Queer Eye," for a National Geographic docuseries further showcased Sarawak's culinary traditions.

Preserving Heritage and Addressing Contemporary Challenges

Dishes like marinated chicken wood-fired in bamboo stems and mashed rice steamed in leaves are gaining popularity and signify a stark change from a decade ago when stories about Indigenous culture in Sarawak were mostly tales of loss. The current stage is not just a revival but also a period of experimentation and a celebration of the uniqueness of Indigenous culture in a global context.

Young Sarawakians, both with and without Indigenous heritage, are embracing native methods of foraging, smoking, and fermenting. They are also putting their own spin on these practices and finding ways to commercialize them. However, this has sparked a debate about the future of Indigenous culture. Some believe that the goal is not to restore Indigenous ways of life entirely but to incorporate aspects of it to address contemporary challenges, such as underinvestment in East Malaysia and the climate crisis.

The Sarawak Gastronomy Incubator Program

During the pandemic, four Sarawakian millennials launched the Sarawak Gastronomy Incubator program to promote and preserve the state's food heritage. They organized the first festival for tuak, an Indigenous rice wine traditionally brewed at home. The festival exceeded expectations, with thousands of attendees sampling and buying tuak from aging matriarchs who had never sold their brew commercially before. This resurgence has brought back a sense of pride among the Bisaya tribe, whose brewing culture was on the brink of disappearing in the 1980s.

The pandemic also provided an opportunity for young Sarawakians to explore their heritage and deepen their connection to their identity as Sarawakians. Many started their own tuak businesses or learned how to brew tuak from YouTube videos. However, the challenge lies in reaching a mainstream audience and ensuring that Indigenous cuisine is not seen as a passing trend.

Challenges and Future Outlook

Restaurateurs like John Lim have embraced Indigenous cooking methods and locally foraged ingredients, but it is still a challenge to convince customers to pay higher prices for unconventional dishes. Nonetheless, Lim remains committed to showcasing the unique flavors of Borneo and believes that more chefs should explore the bounty of the region.

The renaissance of Indigenous food culture in Borneo is a testament to the resilience and adaptability of Indigenous communities. It is not just a revival of the past but a celebration of the present and a response to the challenges of the future. By incorporating Indigenous practices into contemporary solutions, Sarawakians are preserving their heritage while also addressing pressing issues such as sustainability and economic development.